How To Remove Exhaust Manifold Bolts Without Breaking

OK, I know I should just bargain with the inevitable. 1999 Sierra, trans needs to come up out. I tin can't imagine I'll win the battle confronting 18 years and 280k miles but thought I would inquire. I soaked them in Kroil today and won't be back to see it for three days. Is bear upon a proficient idea or a bad thought?

Bad idea.

I similar the judicious utilise of an impact, (brusk, quick bursts, off, on, off, on) perhaps some estrus from the torch.

Y'all might exist surprised at how easily they come off.

Also, if you lot need new hardware, spend the extra buck or two on OE stuff. Information technology will fit and work then, and so much ameliorate than aftermarket stuff.

Best way to go them out that ive tried is tighten them first before trying to remove them. It works on southern pocket-size block mopar.

Dusterbd13 wrote: All-time mode to get them out that ive tried is tighten them first before trying to remove them. It works on southern modest cake mopar.

I'll second that. My success rate went way up when I started doing this.

I call up the Chevs of the 90's lesser the nut out on a step in the stud, so tightening might not work in this case. Generally a practiced suggestion, though.

Sonic SuperDork
3/12/17 5:24 p.m.

Heat them up nice and orange, I've been amazed at the crusty exhaust bolts I've been able to remove that style

Soak them. Rut them. Soak them again as they cool (make sure you take plenty ventilation for the smoke). Then heat the ever loving crap out of them. And so hit them with an impact.

If that tin can't go them off, I doubt anything will.

They are undersized(imho) and impact volition blow the heads off. Heat and a 3/8 ratchet is all i utilize on those

Sonic wrote: Heat them up nice and orangish, I've been amazed at the crusty exhaust bolts I've been able to remove that way

The expert office is, if they are really bad, there'due south no threads below where the nuts are, and so once you get it by three-four turns, it's off.

When they are only slightly rusty, you have a bunch of rust-filled threads that yous accept to graunch the nut past. This is where running a new nut over the threads starting time helps. But you're yet going to want to get the nut orange, and end trying to plow information technology once it sticks once again, become it orangish again earlier trying again.

This is one place where Chrysler did it right. The exhaust is held on with bolts, not studs. No threads in the frazzle manifold. Just cut the former bolts off, easy equally pie.

NOHOME PowerDork
3/13/17 6:thirteen a.g.

patgizz wrote: They are undersized(imho) and affect will blow the heads off. Estrus and a 3/eight ratchet is all i apply on those

Are they similar to the tiny exhaust studs used on the Ford Modular engines? Skilful luck. Thread rust is the least of your problems, the rust attacks the nuts and there is zip to grab with a socket.

Knurled wrote: When they are just slightly rusty, you have a bunch of rust-filled threads that you take to graunch the nut past.

TIL: graunch /ɡrɔːntʃ/ verb 1. (transitive) ( NZ) to crush or destroy

Exhaust studs in general suck! I one time had to pull the head off of a BB Chevy but because someone (Not me) went gorilla on a couple of exhaust manifold studs and snapped them off. I practice call back seeing a friend who at the time worked at a Midias Muffler store have a torch and oestrus a broken manifold stud up and then striking the cutting OX in and bravado out the stud with out doing much to the threads in the manifold. All it took was a tap to clean out the threads and it was good to become. The thing is I saw him exercise this a number of times and not just him getting lucky that ane time.

NOHOME wrote:

patgizz wrote:

Are they similar to the tiny exhaust studs used on the Ford Modular engines? Adept luck. Thread rust is the least of your problems, the rust attacks the nuts and there is zippo to grab with a socket.

This is how I did it on a Big Block Ford (same effect):

Volition a typical small bottle propane torch generate enough heat or do I need something more angry?

Sonic SuperDork
3/16/17 6:xviii a.yard.

Much more than angry, propane will never be hot enough. I have a pocket-sized kit like this for the rare times I need information technology

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK5500-Brazing-Torch-Kit-361487/300055608

Take it to your friendly neighborhood muffler store and inquire them to supercede the gasket for yous. They deal with the mess every day and it'due south worth the $75 to drink coffee and surf the internet while the job gets done.

Life lesson from the air cooled VW crowd: If y'all use brass or copper nuts they will exist easier to disassemble next time.

A small bottle of map gas is what yous need. I take a torch for mine that has about iv feet of hose on information technology and so getting the torch in to tight spaces is easy. I take had it about xxx years way easier than luging out the ox/acc rig. In fact the map gas torch I have is a big reason why I got rid of my tanks. It wont cut anything but is dam good at getting things adept and ruby hot.

I have an older version of this.

Ok I misinterpreted. The studs aren't undersized on your truck, but the manifold to head bolts are. Chances are y'all have a few with missing heads right now.

Either way, become them red hot. Somehow i managed to get them all off when i inverse out the 5.3 in the snaab only it had one/3 the miles and was from a no winter climate. I did hammer on them with the bear upon and a vi point socket. The studs themselves are strong, it'south the nuts that are weak and dear to round off especially if you try and use a 12 point socket

Another option is to hitting the nuts and studs with phosphoric acid, they sell information technology as rust dissolver. Works great, havent ever tried it on frazzle studs though.

+1 on phosphoric acrid, loc-tite markets theirs equally "naval jelly." If you're not in a bustle you simply slather it on and let it sit, the longer the better. Afterward that, heat plus ratchet.

I have never tried it, but I watched a video that made it look easy: Heat information technology up glowing cherry-red (not super hot cherry scarlet) and then melt a candle on information technology. Supposedly the paraffin wicks into the threads very well.

Naval jelly is garbage, get the liquid stuff rust dissolver. If you utilize naval jelly become the aluminum one, it is stronger.

Like Curtis said, I took an engine building class and the prof used the oxy/settlin to remove a galley plug or something, heat upwards carmine put wax on and matter comes out like shooting fish in a barrel.

If y'all really flooded them they might just come up out cold subsequently soaking a few days. I pulled an onetime Y pipe once where one side snapped off both studs and the other came correct off, both sides got soaked for days, and so I call back torched (propane, only smoking hot), hit with oil again, and removal by hand attempted with a socket. The difference was the easy side was much easier to hitting with the tin can of PB blaster and got a more effective initial application.

Source: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/tips-for-removing-exhaust-from-manifolds-without-breaking-studs/127375/page1/

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